The Ritigala Archaeological Site comes close to what can be called picture-book ruins in the jungles, though you should neither expect large structures overgrown by roots of trees as in Cambodia. Ritigala differs from most other archaological sites from the Anuradhapura period. Neither Buddha statues nor stupas nor Bo-tree terraces can be seen here. Instead of this, Ritigala is the best example representing an alternative style of classical Sinhalese monastic architecture, which is called Padhanagara Pirivena. Padhanagaras are double platforms connected by a bridge. Probably, they served as meditation terraces. Such Padhanagaras and their interconnecting paved meditation pathes plus a special structure for Ayurvedic treatments and compartively large ponds with stepped ghats are typical features of monasteries of a somewhat enigmatic reform fraternity called Pansukilikas. Pansukulika means “rag-robes” and refers to a vow taken by these specific monks to wear only garments made from rags found at cremation sites. Monasteries of this Pansukulika or Padhanagara type are also known from Western Anuradhapura, Arankale, Manakanda and Kirilagala, Ritigala being the largest and best specimen. Remarkably, the monasteries of this austere monks living in forests are quite elobarate stone structures, built of huge slabs that are carefully ciselled to fit to each other. Apart from the architectural quality of the buildings, no other works of art are seen in Padhanagara Pirivenas of the Pamsukulika brotherhood. But there is one remarkable exception from this rule: Ornate carvings are seen only at urinal stones of the ancient monasteries’ toilets.
The ruined complex of Ritigale is situated at the eastern base and slope of the highest mountain in the Northwestern Province. The isolated forested hills of Ritigala rise out of the plains and can be seen from far distance, for example from Sigiriya Rock or from Lake Kalawewa. The Ritigala Kanda, known for its quite unique vegetation, must not be climbed by visitors without special permission, as this unique biotop is a strict nature reserve. However, the archaeological site at the westen slope, close to the foot of the hill, is accessible for all travellers.
Ritigala, surrounded by legends and folk tales, is situated right in the centre of the Cultural Triangle, the heartland of the ancient Sinhalese civilization then known as Rajarata. Though not overcrowded, Ritigala is not an off-the-beaten-path location any more, since it is mentioned in many pocket guides and it’s not far away from major tourist destinations. Due to the cluster of hotels and guesthouses in the Habarana and Dambulla and Minneriya area, Ritigala can be reached easily on half-day excursions from almost every hotel in the central region of the Cultural Triangle around Sigiriya. Those tourists who travel from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa can include a retour to Ritigala conveniently, too. The distance from First House Mihintale is 51 km via Galenbindunuwewa.
Mysteries of Mount Ritigala
The altitude of the highest point of the isolated Ritigala ridge is 766 m above sea level. The uppermost parts are wrapped in clouds most of the time. Due to the humid climate, some plants can grow here that otherwise only inhabit the Sri Lankan highlands. Due to ist extraordinary biodiverity, the higher altitudes of the range are protected as a strict nature reserver. This means, climbing the very top is prohibited, except for biologists with special permissions. Ritigala is famous for ist abundance of medicinal plants in particular.
A famous legend from the Indian Ramayana epic represents the origin of this wealth in herbs. When the hero of the epic, Rama, was almost fatally wounded, there were only very special herbs with very long Sanskrit names from the Himalayas that could cure him. Hanuman flew to the air to northern India, but after arrival at the snow mountains, he had forgotton the complicated designations of those herbs. Thus he cut out an entire massif of the Himalayas to bring it to Sri Lanka. However, on his flight through the air back to Rama, chunks of the massif fell down on the earth, one of them now forming Ritigala. In Hindu mythology, these chunks are called ‚Sanjeewani drops‘, Sanjeewani being the mythical herb that cures all diseases.
Sinhalese legends, partly historical, refer to the wilderness of Ritigala, the ancient Arittha Pabbata, as hideout af various rebellious members of royal families, starting campaigns from this remote jungle to seize the throne in Anuradhapura. However, the namegiving hero, Arittha himself - though being of royal descent, too, namely the nephew of the island’s first Buddhist king, Devamampiya Tissa – was a completely peaceful hermit. He is believed to have settled down in this area after becoming the very first native monk of Sri Lanka and also the first saint (arahant) who had found enlightenment on the island.
Ritigala Archeologigical Site
At the eastern foot of the Ritigala range, there is one of Sri Lanka’s most fascinating archaeological sites. Some caves in this area date back to pre-christian centuries. However, the monastery the remains of which are Ritigala’s main attraction now is from the late Anuradhapura period, the last centuries of the first millennium AD. Ritigala – in ancient times known as Arittha Pabbata – was the largest monastery of an enigmatic Buddhist fraternity called Pansukulikas. They formed the most ascetic faction of Sri Lanka’s Buddhist order. The architecture of their settlements differs sifnificantly from the island’s ordinary monasteries. There were no stupas, no Buddha images and even no Bo-trees inside a monastic complex of Pansukulikas. Instead, Padhanagara meditation platforms are the main edifices, besides artificial ponds and Ayurvedic hospitals and plastered meditation pathes. Climbing the ancient stairways can be a little bit strenuous but will be rewarding.
Bathing pond
Close to the ticket office at the very foot of the hill are the partly restored Ghats of the Banda Pokuna. ‚Pokuna‘ is an artificial ponds für bathing, Ghats are the wide steps flanking the pool. In comparison to monastic bathes found in other ancient monasteries of Sri Lanka, the Banda Pokuna was extraordinarily large. The reason for the size may have been that it was not used by monks exclusively but also was a holy bath for pilgrims. Due to ist reputation as a place of healing power and as a dwelling of austere holy men, Ritigala was a quite popular pilgrimage destination in ancient times.
Reception Hall
When climbing the ancient path through the large monastic complex half way, the visitor will arrive at a group of quite plain platforms. They are assumed to have carried a kind of wooden reception hall marking the entrance to the sacred area of the monks. Presumably, visitors were allowed to visit monks behind the reception hall but were not allowed to enter the core complex without invitation or permission or guiding.
Ayurvedic Hospital
One of the most striking structures in the sea of debris of Ritigala ist the so-called hospital. Actually, the function of the building that was surrounding a rectangular shallow pond on all four sides is not entirely clear. Most likely, it was not a refectory but a place for therapeutical treatments indeed, but more a spa than a hospital. Grindstones are still in situ. They were used to prepare the herbs for medicinal bathes. Hot water facilities were included, too. Buildings such as this one are found in all Pansukulika monasteries. They are called Janthagaras, ‚jantha‘ referring to the warmed water, ‚gara‘ simply meaninf ‚house‘.
Meditation Path
Particular behind the level of the reception hall and the nearby Janthagara, the path crossing the upper monastic comped is extraordinarily elaborate. Stone slabs of enourmous size are hewn to fit together precisely. Like Janthagaras, such plastered pathes are typical of Pansukulika monasteries. They served not only as lines of communication but also as meditation pathes, as walking can be one method of Buddhist practice focusing the mind.
Library
One of the most picturesque parts of the Ritigala Archaeological Zone can be reached by leaving the paved meditation path and taking a jungle path to the left. After a few hundred meters it reaches the remains of a building atop a boulder. It is presumed to have served as a kind of sacistry, safekeeping scriptures and other precious ritual objects. The most impressive feature of this ensemble is the monolothic bridge crossing a small chasm.
Meditation center
The most typical feature of a monastery of the Pansukulika fraternity was the double platform called Padhanagara. The more elaborate of the two platforms was reserved for monks meditating in seated position. The rules of the Buddhist Order known as Vinaya and forming part of the Holy Scriptures recommend that the place of mediation should make sure that the monk will remain undisturbed by snakes and beasts. A clean platform helped to fulfil this purpose. The second platform was provided for lay people visiting the monks but keeping respectful distance. They came here to ask for advice but also venerated the monks, presumably by circumambulations of the monks‘ platform. This is why the largest Padhanagara is surrounded by a courtyard. The bridge between the platforms has lateral steps allowing visitors to climb down to this courtyard.
Decorated urinal stones
The most striking feature within a Padhanagara courtyard is the urinal stone. Remarkably, this is the only part of the entire monastery that bears artistic reliefs. All other buildings of the Pansukulikas lack any kind of ornamental decoration. The reason is their intention to lead a life without any distracting luxury. Actually, Pansukulikas were showing their contempt to works of art in this special way: urinating on it.
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